Ladies 1926 Gruen Guild Engraved 14k Gold Filled Cushion Art Deco Wristlet Watch
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Ladies 1926 Gruen Guild Engraved 14k Gold Filled Cushion Art Deco Wristlet Watch:
In its glory years from the 1920s through the 1940s, the Gruen Watch Company of USA & Switzerland was one of the leaders in wristwatch design and quality, even collaborating with Rolex (i.e., the Aegler movement duo-dial doctor’s watch) from its factories in Switzerland. Prior to WWII, Gruen was better known in the USA than Rolex, which at that time was concentrating on the British and Commonwealth countries (hence lots of early Rolexes coming out of Australia and the UK). Hans Wilsdorf and Gruen were friends and neighbors in Switzerland (their factories were just yards away), and even agreed to market their watches as Rolex Gruen in Europe, but the Great Depression (and more urgent matters) prevented this.
I am very pleased to offer for sale the following ladies timepiece from the Gruen firm, a Gruen “Guild” Wristlet Model 68 that dates to ca 1926. This 14kt White Gold Filled watch is in excellent condition, complete with a sterling silver, engraved dial and cabochon sapphire winding crown.
Triple-signed for Gruen its three-piece, Cushion-form case measures 28mm end to end and 24.5mm in width (27.2mm with sapphire tip crown) or 1-1/8 inches long by 1 inch in width, not counting the winding crown. Fitted to the watch is a new matte black 10mm wide leather strap, able to fit a wrist 5-1/4 to 6-5/8 inches in size. My watchmaker David has fully serviced its original 15 jewel, 3 adjustment Gruen Guild mechanism, ensuring its wines and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time.
The sterling silver, enamel finished dial is in excellent condition, the original that has been professionally restored to its correct status. It features a 60 minute outer track border, black enameled numerals, original blue steel Breguet-style hands and a separate sub-seconds dial with 60 second outer chapter and ‘sweep’ blue steel seconds hand. Note the finely engraved floral design center dial – beautiful! Signed GRUEN below the 12 and SWITZERLAND at the base of the dial.
The hardened acrylic crystal (removed for some photos to avoid glare) is in excellent condition with no flaws. The 14 Karat White Gold Filled case (a Gruen “Ultra Quality”) is Cushion in form and in excellent PLUS condition – complete with elaborately engraved bezel and case sides. The cabochon sapphire winding crown is vintage but a later replacement. It is in excellent order, winding and setting smoothly.
Turning the watch over I see that the back lid is in excellent condition, tastefully monogrammed “E.B.R.” Peeking inside I find a clean and high-grade Fifteen Jewel manual wind mechanism that is signed GRUEN GUILD – FIFTEEN 15 JEWELS, THREE 3 ADJ. – SWITZERLAND [Caliber] 179.
The inside of the case lid is stamped GRUEN ULTRA QUALITY - 179 with case number as well. Please note that the 179 is the movement caliber (grade) and that the last four digits of the case back (1258) are stamped on the center section of the watch, ensuring originality.
This cleaned, oiled, and regulated Gruen Guild “Wristlet 68” winds and sets very smoothly while keeping accurate time. It is fitted on a new 10mm wide matte finish black leather strap that will comfortably fit a wrist 5-1/4 inches to 6-5/8 inches in size. So that’s the scoop on this beautiful Art Deco timepiece – ready to be worn and enjoyed by a 21 century woman who is a “Flapper” at heart.
- Since 1998, Holben's Fine Watches' goal has been happy customers. I treat buyers as I like to be treated: with courtesy and respect. I’m especially proud of my excellent response and high number of repeat clients. I’m a long-standing member of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC), and have collected watches since I was a kid.
- Watch sizes: I provide exact measurements in millimeters (the watch industry standard) and inches, and include a U.S. quarter in photos as a size reference. Draw the measurements on paper to help visualize the watch on your wrist. Remember, men’s watches from the 1910s - 1960s were smaller than considered normal today.
- Buyers outside the United States with less than five response: Please introduce yourself via email PRIOR to offerding. Otherwise, your offer may be retracted.
- Note: The USPS has raised its fees for all services as of 1/27/20013 – including a 100% increase of first class international rates. I charge less than actual cost for fully insured, shipping with tracking – there are no handling or packing fees. Overall, I spent $1.22 for every $1 received for shipping costs in 2012 (source: Quick books data).
- U.S. winners pay $6.75 for fully insured, safely boxed USPS First-Class Mail shipping. Washington State residents (and those with shipping addresses in Washington State) add 8.6% sales tax.
- Canadian buyers pay $21.00 for Registered Air Mail shipping with tracking (I cover the insurance) or $35 for EMS Global Express, a bit faster. International buyers pay $49.00 for EMS Global Express Mail with tracking and insurance. I do provide a Registered Air Mail shipping option ($25.00) to a few select countries, including the United Kingdom, France, Netherlands, Switzerland, Japan, Hong Kong and Taiwan. If you are an international buyer please wait until I invoice you with your shipping option(s).
- International Buyers – Please Note: Import duties, taxes, and charges are not included in the item price or shipping cost. These charges are the buyer's responsibility. Please check with your country's customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to offerding. While I ship within 24 hours of receiving payment but your local custom authorities can delay the delivery of your package. As such, it can take anywhere from 7 days to 30 days before final delivery is made.
- Payment is due within three days of sale end, unless you’ve contacted me prior to arrange otherwise. In accordance with policy, payments not received in four days will initiate an unpaid item case through the Resolution Center.
- In the rare event that a watch needs further service upon receipt, I ask that you return the wristwatch to me (or mailed to my watchmaker, David) at my expense. It will be corrected and quickly mailed back to you.
- If you like unique and collectible vintage or antique wristwatches, add holbensfinewatches to your Favorite Sellers. I specialize in American and Swiss timepieces from the 1900s – 1970s. My selection changes weekly, and is comprised of manual wind and automatic watches from the following categories: WWI trench; WWII; military; fancy case, art nouveau; art deco; mid-century modern; stainless steel; sterling silver; white, yellow and rose gold; solid gold; platinum; and diamond, ruby and/or sapphire ladies’ cocktail watches.
Our sister store, Holben's Fine Watch Bands, offers an extensive selection of straps including Bonetto Cinturini, deBeer, Di-Modell, Hadley-Roma, Hirsch and Staib; deployment clasps and buckles; metal bracelets; German military Bunds; UTC ballistic nylon G10; open-ended; James Bond striped, leather and woven NATOs; WWII canvas military; genuine and silicone rubber divers; carbon fiber; Kevlar; LORICA; Cordura; GT rally tropic perforated; alligator-, crocodile-, lizard-, ostrich-, shark- and buffalo-grain; chrono sport; riveted; waterproof / water resistant and woven/braided.
On Mar-13-13 at 19:59:35 PDT, seller added the following information: