Rare Vintage Tribal Pakistan Or Afghan Jumlo Tunic Embroidery One Of A Kind
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Rare Vintage Tribal Pakistan Or Afghan Jumlo Tunic Embroidery One Of A Kind:
Rare old hand sewn and hand embroidered jumlo: mountain woman's tunic from tribal Pakistan ( or Afghanistan). Very good condition, and totally wearable. These were originally worn with voluminous trousers. Well made jumlos in good condition are uncommon and costly. What makes this one exceptionally rare is the embroidery motif. Note that the entire front is densely embroidered, with the focal point being a large double ram's horn motif strategically placed over the belly/womb for purposes of fertility, healthy mother and lots of healthy babies. The double ram's head motif is an ancient one in Central Asia and parts of Russia, seldom seen these days because of its associations with the distant, pagan past and old folkways that were animist in nature. Purchased by original western owner in Afghanistan, mid 1960's. Worn seldom since the time she bought it, the jumlo was stored for wearing during modeling hours only ( she posed for artists while wearing authentic folk and historical clothing) . I'm guessing this one was probably created in the 1950's, worn often until purchased by the model and brought it to the USA. While closely resembling those of Pakistan, this jumlo has the distinctive ram's horn talisman embroidery motif associated with textiles of Turkoman origins. The jumlo was purchased in Kabul Afghanistan but might be from either of the 2 countries. > I'm not a textile expert or anthropologist, the details I share are from readily accessible sources available to all online, in books, and scholarly magazines as well as learning from people knowledgeable about the subject. I have some provenance on the item because I communicated with the previous owner's son, and encourage you to study the sharp photos provided, research, and make your own judgement. Want more photos? Just ask, Ive taken many detail shots.> The embroidery threads are fine, probably silk, in a deep magenta tone. Newer jumlos and reproductions are stitched using thick strands in a bright fuschia, spaced wide apart for saving time and money in crafting the item. There's little to no sign of the fluffy fuzz that accumulates on synthetic, cheap, and newer types of embroidery floss made in China.> Very good condition. There are a few loose but not open or torn godet seams in the back, detectable only if you turn the dress inside out and go over them one by one. As to be expected for authentic, old vintage textiles the black textile has faded and there are a few loose threads, probably from washing. Some portions of the embroidered designs look like the stitches are wider apart than in others. >NO mildew, smoke, incense, body or kerosene smells so often found in the old, well loved, and worn clothing the world over. The dress was in good shape when I bought it, and its in good shape for the next owner. This was not a tourist piece.> NO staining or bleached areas>NO dry rotMy dress form is calibrated to a standard USA misses size 10. The dress is generally a free size with many pleatsDETAILS
>Deep V neckline
>Length: Approx. 33"
>Sleeves: 28" from hem to armholes
>Bodice measurement under arms: Approx. 27" wide, total of 54"
>zipper hem at the cuffs
>modesty flap at the deep V neck allowing for mother to nurse her baby without disrobing in a communal setting
>Large, well worn brass open work circles are sewn here and there onto body of dress. Also buttons and beads
very good condition
> IN SOME PLACES the embroidery is thinned out, whether this was because the embroiderer was running out of floss and accordingly spaced stitches wider apart, or because they've worn away there's no way of knowing.NOTE: Numerous jumlo examples on the market today being sold as authentic do consist of scrap pieces salvaged retrieved from deteriorated dresses, stitched together using new black cotton textile, and lined with faded rags. The entire piece is soaked in dirty water and air dried, giving it an antiquated, stiff appearance. Wash it and you'll see new fabric and often, machine stitching becomes obvious.Up cycling isn't a bad thing at all, the poor have been doing this for centuries, and I've a few items like this myself...However, in most cases the up cycled items, made by cobbling together disparate parts from old clothing too damaged for resale, are worth considerably less than a genuine vintage or antique jumlo intact with original parts. Please be wary of paying authentic, original condition prices when what you're getting is a pastiche cobbled together from many sources.