Stirling Engine Kit, Walking Beam Working Model Hot Air Stirling Cycle
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Stirling Engine Kit, Walking Beam Working Model Hot Air Stirling Cycle:
This is a unusual kit for a classic design of a Stirling cycle engine. Made from recycled
materials, the engine runs from a hot candle, and cool water. The kit contains
all of the parts needed to build this eco friendly design. All you need to supply
is hot melt glue, clear tape, silicone sealant, and the cardboard.
Everything else is included, alongside clear printed instructions. There's a video of the engine running further down the page, if you'd like to see it running,
please scroll down and click play one the video. Instructions can be downloaded in advance. Download instructions here or read below.Features :
- Brass crankshaft connectors
- Porous wire wool displacer that acts as a moving regenerator - for an easier to run engine
- Environmentally friendly design, made partly from recycled materials.
- Fully sealed displacer assembly - no need to worry about air leaks from the displacer cylinder.
- Low friction diaphragm, this engine contains no pistons.
- Unusual linkage between the diaphragm and crankshaft.
- Low friction gravity driven displacer, displacer runs on a thin nylon wire for easy assembly and low friction
- Low cost, ideal for the engine enthusiast or for educational use
- Clear, 7 page colour printed instructions included.
- Made in England.
- Wire cutters/pliers
- Small flat head melt glue gun
- Bradawl/ Awl
- Thick corrugated cardboard
- Glue sticks
- Silicone Sealant (clear type recommended) .
- Clear tape.
Note to international buyers :If you have a deadline, or want this item quickly, don't buy this item. Airmail
and deadlines do not go together!
How long will it take to get here ?UK First class Postage generally takes 1 - 2 working days after dispatch
UK Second class Postage generally takes 3 - 5 working days after dispatch
EU postage generally takes 3 - 5 working days after dispatch.
Rest of the world generally takes 7 - 14 working days after dispatch.
Video of the engine in operation
How to add an alternator to the engine: The following video shows how to add an alternator to your Stirling engine using easily available parts.
Beam Stirling Engine Kit Assembly Instructions
Running the engine
Oil all of the bearing points regularly with a light machine oil.
Fill the cooling jacket with cold water
Light the tea light candle and place it underneath the displacer cylinder.
Wait around a minute for the engine to heat up.
Turn the flywheel counter clockwise to start the engine.
If everything has gone to plan, it should be running!
If not, check all of the bearing points for excess friction.
Try adjust the diaphragm, small adjustments in the tension of the rubber diaphragm can make a big difference to the operation of the engine.
Check that the displacer is being pulled up and down correctly. When the beam is at it's highest point there should be on a very small amount of slack in the wire ( 3 - 6mm). If it's being pulled tight, or there's a lot of slack in the nylon wire, make adjustments to it.
Wire parts assembly
Assemble the main connecting rod and crankshaft as shown below. The brass connectors should have small sections of heat-shrink tubing on either side.
1.) Cut around the templates and tape them to the corrugated cardboard.
2.) Pierce through all of the bearing points(marked +) using a drawing pin. Widen the holes using the 100mm bearing bar.
3.) Cut out the internal sections first. The slots should be matched to the thickness of the cardboard you are using.
4.) Cut out all of the pieces.
5.) Assemble the middle plate, baseplate, and side pieces as shown
6.) Check that the middle plate rests 100mm (4”) from the base plate.
7.) Glue the first diaphragm support piece into place. It should be level with the top of the cut out in the side pieces.
8.) Fit the displacer cylinder into place as shown.
9.) Glue the second diaphragm support piece in place, about 18 mm (1”) above the first one.
10.) Glue the diaphragm holder into place as shown.
11.) Pierce two holes for the bolts that hold the bearing bracket in place. Bolt one of the bearing brackets in place using a M4 x12 bolt, washer and nut.
12.) Fit the crankshaft in place. Thread it through the small holes, not the larger holes. Bolt the other bearing bracket into place.
13.) Screw one of the brass connectors onto a piece of 45mm bearing bar. Push the flywheel against the brass connector and glue the two together. Repeat for the other flywheel.
14.) Remove the flywheels and connector from the bearing bar and fix them into place as shown.
15.) Fit the diaphragm over the diaphragm holder. It should not be stretched tight.
16.) Glue the two beam support piece in place as shown.
17.) Glue the other beam piece on as shown.
18.) Widen the centre hole, so the beam will move freely.
19.) Cut two small 5mm (¼ “) pieces of spacer material. Push the beam bearing bar through the side pieces and through the walking beam, with the small spacer piece either side of the beam..
20.) Fit main connecting rod into the beam. There should be spacer material either side.
21.) Connect the other end of the main connecting rod into the crankshaft as shown.
22.) Cut the diaphragm connecting rod down to size and fix it into the brass connector on the main con rod.
23.) Fit the displacer con rod into place in the same way as the main con rod.
24.) Tie the displacer wire to the displacer con rod.
The nylon wire needs to be tied so that in moves the displacer up and down. Once you've tied the nylon wire on and got the movement reasonably close, it's easier to make small adjustments by bending the steel connecting rod so that it becomes longer or shorter.
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