Stirling Engine Kit, Walking Beam Working Model Hot Air Stirling Cycle For Sale
This is a unusual kit for a classic design of a Stirling cycle engine. Made from recycled materials, the engine runs from a hot candle, and cool water. The kit contains all of the parts needed to build this eco friendly design. All you need to supply is hot melt glue, clear tape, silicone sealant, and the cardboard. Everything else is included, alongside clear printed instructions. There's a video of the engine running further down the page, if you'd like to see it running, please scroll down and click play one the video. Instructions can be downloaded in advance. Download instructions here or read below.Features :
Brass crankshaft connectors
Porous wire wool displacer that acts as a moving regenerator - for an easier to run engine
Environmentally friendly design, made partly from recycled materials.
Fully sealed displacer assembly - no need to worry about air leaks from the displacer cylinder.
Low friction diaphragm, this engine contains no pistons.
Unusual linkage between the diaphragm and crankshaft.
Low friction gravity driven displacer, displacer runs on a thin nylon wire for easy assembly and low friction
Low cost, ideal for the engine enthusiast or for educational use
Warning! Engine contains sharp edges, please handle with care!What do I need to build this kit ? Tools needed :
Small flat head melt glue gun
Thick corrugated cardboard
Silicone Sealant (clear type recommended) .
Note to international buyers :If you have a deadline, or want this item quickly, don't buy this item. Airmail and deadlines do not go together! How long will it take to get here ?UK First class Postage generally takes 1 - 2 working days after dispatch UK Second class Postage generally takes 3 - 5 working days after dispatch EU postage generally takes 3 - 5 working days after dispatch. Rest of the world generally takes 7 - 14 working days after dispatch. Video of the engine in operation
How to add an alternator to the engine:
The following video shows how to add an alternator to your Stirling engine using easily available parts.
all of the bearing points regularly with a light machine oil.
the cooling jacket with cold water
the tea light candle and place it underneath the displacer
around a minute for the engine to heat up.
the flywheel counter clockwise to start the engine.
everything has gone to plan, it should be running!
not, check all of the bearing points for excess friction.
adjust the diaphragm, small adjustments in the tension of the
rubber diaphragm can make a big difference to the operation of the
that the displacer is being pulled up and down correctly. When the
beam is at it's highest point there should be on a very small
amount of slack in the wire ( 3 - 6mm). If it's being
pulled tight, or there's a lot of slack in the nylon wire, make
adjustments to it.
the main connecting rod and crankshaft as shown below. The brass
connectors should have small sections of heat-shrink tubing on either
around the templates and tape them to the corrugated cardboard.
through all of the bearing points(marked +) using a drawing pin.
Widen the holes using the 100mm bearing bar.
out the internal sections first. The slots should be matched to the
thickness of the cardboard you are using.
out all of the pieces.
the middle plate, baseplate, and side pieces as shown
that the middle plate rests 100mm
from the base plate.
the first diaphragm support piece into place. It should be level with
the top of the cut out in the side pieces.
the displacer cylinder into place as shown.
the second diaphragm support piece in place, about 18
above the first one.
10.) Glue the diaphragm
holder into place as shown.
11.) Pierce two holes for
the bolts that hold the bearing bracket in place. Bolt one of the
bearing brackets in place using a M4
x12 bolt, washer and nut.
the crankshaft in place. Thread it through the small holes, not the
larger holes. Bolt the other bearing bracket into place.
one of the brass connectors onto a piece of 45mm bearing bar. Push
the flywheel against the brass connector and glue the two together.
Repeat for the other flywheel.
the flywheels and connector from the bearing bar and fix them into
place as shown.
the diaphragm over the diaphragm holder.
It should not be stretched tight.
the two beam support piece in place as shown.
the other beam piece on as shown.
the centre hole, so the beam will move freely.
19.) Cut two small 5mm (¼ “) pieces of spacer material.
Push the beam bearing bar through the side pieces and through the
walking beam, with the small spacer piece either side of the beam..
20.) Fit main connecting rod into the beam. There should
be spacer material either side.
21.) Connect the other
end of the main connecting rod into the crankshaft as shown.
22.) Cut the diaphragm
connecting rod down to size and fix it into the brass connector on
the main con rod.
23.) Fit the displacer
con rod into place in the same way as the main con rod.
24.) Tie the displacer wire to the displacer con rod.
The nylon wire needs to be tied so that
in moves the displacer up and down. Once you've tied the nylon wire
on and got the movement reasonably close, it's easier to make small
adjustments by bending the steel connecting rod so that it becomes
longer or shorter.
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Stirling Engine Kit, Walking Beam Working Model Hot Air Stirling Cycle: $8