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The item you just saw is an extraordinary, single of its kind, HUGE AND RARE Vintage Genuine Old Hand-Embroidered Wall Hanging/ Tapestry/ Throw. This very fine and intricate embroidery is worked with the help of an ‘Aar' (holed needle) where the thread is introduced from beneath the base. This is known as ‘Mochi Bharat' (Cobbler's stitch). In the earlier days, silk thread was used on satin (Gaji) fabric but later cotton was commonly used as its base as used here in this extra-ordinary piece. Although the technique is simple in principle, still it requires extensive skills and long practice. This art grew and prospered under the sponsorship of royal families in Kutch and Saurashtra. This VERY SPECIAL piece comprises of a variety of floral and animal designs depicting the TREE OF LIFE. This Rare piece is sure worth giving it a go!!!
Condition: Good Condition all over Size: 68 INCHES X 33 INCHES
Originating Tribe: Rabari Tribe (Description Below)
Retail Market Value: $400
Brief information on the different tribes associated with our wares:
Banjara (Nomadic or Gypsy) Tribes
The Banjaras came to the Deccan following the invasion by the armies of Aurangzeb. According to some authorities, the actual Banjara lineage goes back to some 2000 years. They are said to be the descendants of the Roma gypsies of Europe who migrated to India through the rugged mountains of Afghanistan and finally settled down in Rajasthan. The colourful stream of the Banjaras began to travel down to the South in the 14th century. Many of their families and pack bullocks crossed the Vindhy as and reached the Deccan country in the wake of the plundering armies.Those were hard time for the Banjaras. “There were no navigable rivers and no roads to wheel their belongings. Thousands of laden bullocks and carts had to travel on mere dust tracks. A single tribe owned as many as 50000 to 60000 cattle” says Capt. Briggs (1813). And so, thanks to the number of cattle they owned, the Banjaras worked for the Moghuls as commissariat carriers transporting provisions and arms, setting up camps on the outskirts of army encampments. When the Southern campaigns ended, the Banjaras forgot their desert homes in Rajasthan and settled down in the Deccan.Today due to the spread of communication the Banjara lifestyle has naturally altered and the tribals have had to abandon their packs of animals and take to working as labourers on building and construction projects. Despite all this, their traditional customs, manners and ceremonies have undergone little change but their migratory instinct is still intact.Women are known to wear colorful and beautiful costumes like PHETIYA [as Ghagra] and KANCHALLI [as top] and have tattoos on their hands. The dress is considered fancy and attractive by Western cultures. They use mirror chips and often coins to decorate it. Women put on thick bangles on their arms [PATLI]. Their ornaments are made up of silver rings, coins, chain and hair pleats are tied together at the end by CHOTLA.Men wear Dhoti and Kurta [short with many folds]. These clothes were designed specially for the protection from harsh climate in deserts and to distinguish them from others.
Naga people refer to those people belonging to the Naga group. The word Naga is a common name given and refers to certain tribes inhabiting the North Eastern part of India. Some of the prominent Naga tribes are Angami, Ao, Chakhesang, Chang, Khiamniungan, Konyak, Kuki, Lotha, Pochury, Phom, Rengma, Sangtam, Sema, Yimchunger, Zeliang, etc.
The word 'Naga People' is formed by a conglomeration of many tribes who share similarities in their cultures and traditions. There are fifteen (15) officially recognized tribes in the present State of Nagaland (A North Eastern Indian State bordering Myanmar). The other Naga Tribes can be found in the neighbouring states of Manipur, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh and even across the border in Myanmar. Some of these tribes are; Katcha, Laingmei, Mao, Anal, Maram, Nocte, Phom, Pochuri, Poumai, Rongmei, Tangkhul, Tangsa, Tutsa, Wancho and Zemei. All these tribal groups share similarities in the culture and tradition. The Naga tribes were known as Headhunters, the savage tribes who cut off the heads of the enemies and preserve them as trophies.
The Naga people traditionally are tribally organized, with a strong warrior tradition. Their villages are sited on hilltops and until the later part of the 19th century, they make frequent armed raids on the plains below. Although the tribes exhibit variation to a certain degree, considering the diversity in their languages and some traditional practices, they have many similarities in their cultures which set them apart from the neighboring occupants of the region. Almost all these tribes have a similar dress code, eating habit, customs, traditional laws etc. However, one trait that sets them apart from the other groups in the region is their Head Hunting Custom (Which was prevalent at one point of time) . Though they no longer practice head hunting presently, there is enough evidence to prove that they once used to practice head hunting. The Naga people today number around 4 million in population.
The Naga tribes are expert craftsmen. Their dwellings are made of wood and straw and these are ornately carved and arranged. Each tribe has a unique way of constructing their huts. A common thing about all the tribes is that they decorate the entrances of their dwellings with heads of buffaloes. The Naga people love color and this is evident in their colorfully designed shawls and headgear. Here again, the designs on the costumes are unique to each tribe. They use beads with variety, profusion and complexity in their jewelry along with a gamut of materials like glass, shell, stone, teeth or tusk, claws/horns, metal, bone, wood, seeds, hair, fibre, etc.
Rabari people are a mystery. Their life style is totally different from any other tribe. Nowadays many foreigners do research on Rabari. A Rabari can be nomadic or Semi-nomadic. Most of the time, they wander with their herds. In Kutch, there are about 2500 to 3000 Rabari families. Out of them 70% are nomads and move with their herds to Gujarat, Orissa, Maharashtra and Karnataka in search of fodder and water.
Originally Rabaris came from Jaisalmer. Accordingly to one expert, Rabaris came to Kutch from Afghanistan through Baluchistan. Some expert`s believe that they came from Sindh.
There are two types of Rabari tribal sect namely Vagadias are found in the Eastern Kutch while Dhebarias are mainly found in Anjar taluka. Dhebarias are the biggest percentage of these. Their main village is Midialo in Anjar Taluka, Nearly 800 families live in this small village. There are different costumes and dresses in sub castes, for women. The white dress is common to all Rabari men.
The woman wears black cloth because black wool is wastage. However, the Rabaris believe that the colour black is sad. Rabaris are illiterate. They have blind faith in religion. Their chief is called Bhopas. They are nature lovers. They worship, Mataji Sikotara, Momaya, Loladi, Bhed, Vankol, Amba, Khodiar, Hinglaj. Hinglaj Yatra is important to all Rabaris. They go to his shrine by foot and if some one dies on the way then a memorial stone are places with his name in his native village.
Rabari men respect women. Women do house work; shopping and they sell their goods. Men are mostly in the desert with their sheep and camels. Rabari do not trust doctors and only use Ayurvedic medicines.
These Rabaris who are settled in villages decorate their house with cow dung. In the cow dung they make designs of Futli, Faniari, Scorpio, Nag, Camel, Mango, tree, Sudo and Kanudo.
Rabari women do very interesting embroidery toran, thela, popat, blouse, gagra and also decorations for camels. Some women do bead work. Their houses are spotless. They usually live in groups.
The different tribal groups that now live in Kutch have migrated there from countries as diverse as present day Pakistan, Afghanistan, Russia, Turkey, Iran, and other areas in the Middle East and Central Asia.
The textiles of each of these groups evolved through necessity as portable vessels, furnishings, and items of clothing. Each community and tribal group has its own lexicon of motifs and embroidery stitches. Other craft techniques, such as batik and beading, have been imported into Kutch through sea trade with other countries.
Tribes of Orissa form a major portion of the total population of the state. Almost all the districts of Orissa state comprise of some tribal population. However, the districts of Rayagada, Koraput, Malkangiri, Naurangpur and Kalahandi in the state of Orissa have a large number of tribal populations.
Tribes of Orissa are about seven milling in the state. The total number of tribes living in the state of Orissa is much more than other places in India. All the districts of the state possess a tribal population. Some districts have vast presence of tribal population while some of the other districts of Orissa hold a small number of tribals. Rayagada, Kalahandi, Koraput, Malkangiri and Naurangpur are some of the district of Orissa where more than fifty percent of the total population is tribal. There are very few tribes who are in a better economic condition in this state and are suitable mingled in the society, whereas several other tribes of Orissa spend a totally secluded life. These tribes are thus the most backward with regard to the economic ladder of the state. In Orissa state, different tribes possess different tradition, culture, language and rituals.
There are sixty two tribal communities in the state of Orissa and among these tribal communities the name of Saora tribe (or Sabar) is mentioned in the great Hindu epic of Mahabharata. Few more characteristics of the tribal people of Orissa can be enumerated on the basis of the surveys and study. The tribes of Orissa though belong to three linguistic divisions, are namely Dravidian, Indo-Aryan, Austric and Tibeto-Burmese. The tribes of Orissa have the tendency to build their houses with bamboo and thatched roofs.
A majority of the Orissa tribes take up occupations to sustain livelihood like gathering, hunting and fishing. Tribal communities residing in the hilly areas of Orissa are adept in shifting cultivation. Some of the tribal people are also engaged in handicraft industries or mills. Among these tribal people, some tribes namely the Gadaba tribe and Bondo tribe possess their own looms and they are engaged in making clothes for regular use. Moreover, tribal people like Loharas and Mohali have mastered the art of creating tool making and basket weaving, some tribal communities namely Oran, Munda, Santhals and Ho have switched to the factories, industrial occupations and works in mines. Though the tribal people of Orissa reside together, their cultural and traditional background is the major factors which distinguishes one tribe from another.
One of the most important things in the costumes of the tribal people of Orissa is metal jewelry. Most of the jewelry is made of aluminum and brass. Tattooing is favored among the people of the tribal groups. Women wear long clothes, scarves and jewelry to bedeck them.
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