HPH Models Full Pby 5A Catalina 1/32 Scale Resin Kit. Museum Display Quality JP
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HPH Models Full Pby 5A Catalina 1/32 Scale Resin Kit. Museum Display Quality JP:
$568.30
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Full Pby 5A Catalina 1/32 Scale Resin Kit. Museum Display Quality
Full PBY 5A Catalina in scale 1/32 Resin kit
This is the full Aircraft Kit Two Engines two Wings Two Sides of the Fuselage.
The Consolidated PBY Catalina, also known as the Canso in Canadian service, was an American flying boat, and later an amphibious aircraft of the 1930s and 1940s produced by Consolidated Aircraft. It was one of the most widely used seaplanes of World War II. Catalinas served with every branch of the United States Armed Forces and in the air forces and navies of many other nations.During World War II, PBYs were used in anti-submarine warfare, patrol bombing, convoy escorts, search and rescue missions (especially air-sea rescue), and cargo transport. The PBY was the most numerous aircraft of its kind and the last active military PBYs were not retired from service until the 1980s. In 2014, nearly 80 years after its first flight, the aircraft continues to fly as a waterbomber (or airtanker) in aerial firefighting operations all over the world.General characteristics:Crew: 10 — pilot, co-pilot, bow turret gunner, flight engineer, radio operator, navigator, radar operator, two waist gunners, ventral gunnerLength: 63 ft 10 7/16 in (19.46 m)Wingspan: 104 ft 0 in (31.70 m)Height: 21 ft 1 in (6.15 m)Wing area: 1,400 ft² (130 m²)Empty weight: 20,910 lb (9,485 kg)Max. takeoff weight: 35,420 lb (16,066 kg)Powerplant: 2 × Pratt & Whitney R-1830-92 Twin Wasp radial engines, 1,200 hp (895 kW each) eachZero-lift drag coefficient: 0.0309Drag area: 43.26 ft² (4.02 m²)Aspect ratio: 7.73
Performance:Maximum speed: 196 mph (314 km/h)Cruise speed: 125 mph (201 km/h)Range: 2,520 mi (4,030 km)Service ceiling: 15,800 ft (4,000 m)Rate of climb: 1,000 ft/min (5.1 m/s)Wing loading: 25.3 lb/ft² (123.6 kg/m²)Power/mass: 0.034 hp/lb (0.056 kW/kg)Lift-to-drag ratio: 11.9
Armament:3 .30 cal (7.62 mm) machine guns (two in nose turret, one in ventral hatch at tail)2 .50 cal (12.7 mm) machine guns (one in each waist blister)4,000 lb (1,814 kg) of bombs or depth charges; torpedo racks were also available
Museum Display Quality
- primary parts and details made of resin
- fuselage and wings made of glassfibre
- building instructions on a CD + bonus - a historical movie
- clear resin canopies and transparencies
- lathe-turned metal parts, metal reinforcements cast into the highly-stressed resin parts
- photo-etched parts, colour photo-etches by Eduard
- decals, masks
- laser-cut textile safety belts by the HGW
Resin Kits are expensive because they are sold in smaller volumes. Its a cottage industry compared to the big brands.
2) - Wash the parts thoroughly with detergent before any assembly or painting. This is to remove mould release agent left over from the manufacturing process.
3) - Carefully remove the parts from the pouring blocks using a razor saw - or scalpel for small items - and clean them up before starting construction. Resin can be sanded easily and scribed like styrene to restore over-sanded panel lines, although scribing is best accomplished with a very sharp scriber and light strokes. Note: a certain amount of \"Flash\" is normal on resin kits due to the manufacturing processes involved, but this is easily removed.
4) - Test-fit everything to check for a decent fit before committing to glue. Some shrinkage is normal for resin parts due to the batch variances in resin used and temperature.
5) - Warped parts are not that unusual in resin kits and can easily be corrected by gently heating the part with a hairdryer or by running it under a lukewarm tap before easing it back into shape.
6) - Use 5-minute Epoxy for large joins. Cyanoacrylate adhesive is more suitable for smaller joins.
7) - Gaps can be filled using \"Superglue\" Gel (such as Pro-Bond No.3 Slow Set/Gap Filling cyanoacrylate) or normal model filler (such as Milliput epoxy putty). When using normal model filler it is possible to use a cotton bud lightly coated in Acetone (nail varnish remover) or Cellulose thinners to clean up the join as, unlike polystyrene, resin does not melt when in contact with cellulose thinners.
8) - Use a resin primer such as \"Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer\" (by Gunze Sangyo) as this will reveal any \"Pinholes\" left by air bubbles as a result of the manufacturing process - it also provides a key for the final paint finish to adhere to.
9) - Pinholes can be filled using drops of primer, superglue or even correction fluid (such as Tippex).
10) - Wash the model again with detergent before painting it, to ensure any grease from handling has been removed.
11) - Resin kits can be painted with normal model paints i.e. Enamel or Acrylic paints (such as: Gunze Sangyo, Humbrol, Model Master, Revell, Tamiya, etc.).
12) - Vac-form canopies are normally supplied in pairs. P.V.A. glues (such as Krystal Klear) are best for affixing to the model - applied by small brush; any excess can be removed with a damp cloth before it has cured. However by first dipping the canopies in Johnson\'s \"Future\", not only does this improve the transparency of the canopy material, but it also prevents Cyanoacrylate (Superglue) from fogging them. Note: Cyanoacrylates should not be used directly on untreated acetate canopies, as a white \'blooming\' may occur due to the adhesive reacting on contact with the transparency material.
13) - Decals supplied with our models do not require the use of solvents during their application.
14) - Many of our newer models now include Photo-Etch Detailing Sets. PE parts are best glued with cyanoacrylate (superglue).
HPH Models
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HPH Models Full Pby 5A Catalina 1/32 Scale Resin Kit. Museum Display Quality JP:
$568.30