UPDATED info to go with \"Secrets of Refining Gold from Electronic Scrap\". FREE
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UPDATED info to go with \"Secrets of Refining Gold from Electronic Scrap\". FREE:
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Updated INFO to go with \"Secrets of Refining Gold from Electronic you are buying here is a copy of the same info shown below (\"for free\") emailed to your PayPal email address. The purpose of this info is to supplement the other item that I sell on , \"Secrets of Refining Gold from Electronic Scrap\" I consider this to be of greater value, and it is yours for the viewing.All the following info below is copyright 2016, by Steve Spevak, Noble Metals Recovery, LLC.Over the past 15 years if I had know what is printed below, I could have recovered several thousand dollars more in gold that got lost in the process because of the many times I \"gave up\" on a batch of gold bearing solution that wasn\'t going right. Those problems are virtually eliminated now with the methods shown is not necessary to use Urea in gold refining. Urea is used when refining gold with Aqua Regia (AR). It is used to remove any remaining nitric acid left over in the solution. This is done because ANY nitric acid still in solution will prevent the full precipitation of the gold, or cause some of the gold to redissolve. There are several ways around this issue without the use of Urea.One way is to just add in some more gold bearing metal to further use up the nitric acid. This can work OK. If you use this method you would want to follow up with adding some copper. Once the acid solution has lost the strength to dissolve copper it is safe to assume there\'s no nitric acid left.Another method which I prefer is to adjust the pH up to around 3 or 4. This guarantees that the nitric acid is all gone and that you will get a good clean drop of the gold. To raise the pH you can use baking soda, or my favorite, soda ash (sodium carbonate). You can get soda ash at swimming pool supply centers.A third way to avoid the use of Urea is to drop the gold twice. Dropping gold twice is good practice anyway. Dropping gold, then redissolving it and dropping it again is a standard method of purification. This first time you dissolve the gold will probably be by using AR. This is because on the first round you are dealing with a combination of all kinds of junk metals mixed in with the gold. But, once you do your first drop, now you have mostly gold, probably 95% or better. Also, after the first drop your gold is now in the form of a very fine powder. This means that when you go to dissolve the gold for the second time, you do NOT need to nuke it with AR. It is now very easy to dissolve in it\'s current state. One excellent method is to use HCL, and common household bleach. Heat up this solution with the gold and it will all dissolve. Do it in a safe place, it will release chlorine fumes, which are strong and travel a great distance. There are systems available on by others that will contain these fumes. Since the second dissolution of the Gold has very few contaminants it will be a beautiful gold color. Also, since NO nitric acid was used to dissolve the gold this time you don\'t have the issue of residual nitric acid in the solution do deal with. Residual nitric acid in solution is probably the single biggest problem in gold refining.This is all very important because I have probably had more trouble and frustration in gold refining related to the use of Urea than any other thing. Once you understand why Urea is used and remove the need for using it, gold refining becomes very simplified. Another consideration for not using Urea is that it may interfere with the recovery of Palladium. Palladium is often found in electronic scrap. I have even heard (but am NOT sure) that it can form complexes with some of the gold. This \"complexed\" gold will not drop out of solution. Whether or not these concerns are valid, I prefer not to use Urea.On the CD, \"Secrets of Refining Gold from Electronic Scrap\" you will see that I separate the gold plated metal squares found on ceramic CPU\'s from the ceramic part of the CPU. This is done for two reasons. One is that you to eliminate as much as possible any thing that will prematurely precipitate the gold out of the solution. The iron in the plates will drop out gold. So, until ALL the iron is dissolved, the gold will be dissolving and precipitating back and forth continually until all the iron is gone and there is no visible dark sediment in the container.The other reason for separating the gold plated metal squares was because I was using a super strong AR formula to dissolve the metal plates. These metal plates are Kovar, a type of stainless steel that is very difficult to dissolve. No sweat, you do NOT need to dissolve those Kovar plates. Instead, make use of the fact that they are highly acid resistant. Make up a mild (25%-35%) nitric acid solution. Bent the plates so they don\'t lay flat, and put the plates in this acid. The acid will work it\'s way under the gold, cleanly lifting the gold plating from the Kovar plates while the plates stay mostly intact. This is important because the metal plate on a CPU may have 1/2 of the total gold content for that CPU.Silver is another item that causes trouble when refining gold from electronic scrap. I used to ignore it mostly. Not only was I losing the value of the silver (which now is significant), but I was also losing gold with the silver, NOT good. Dissolving gold in AR presents the problem of silver precipitating as silver chloride which is NOT water soluble. The silver will often entrap some of the gold and will be lost unless measures are taken to recovery it. It is best to remove ALL silver before pursing the gold. This is done using nitric acid. You may have to use inquartation if processing scrap jewelry. You can look this up on the \"Gold Refining Forum\".You will see on the CD that I never mastered the recovery of gold from plated pins. This info here may be helpful. If you have completely dissolved some gold plated pins and then add copper to the solution, whatever metals drop out of the solution will have value. This is because copper will only drop metals out of solution that are \"above\" it in the electronegativity series. These metals include, Platinum, Palladium, Gold, and Silver. Copper will not drop out base metals \"below\" it such as lead, tin, nickel, etc. I used to add copper to these solutions, but when all I saw was a dark precipitant falling from the copper, I did not realize it HAD to be a metal of value, or a mix of value metals.What follows next is he single most important discovery I have made in fifteen years of gold refining. probably every book on gold refining has a step which involves filtering the solution to recover the precipitated gold from the liquid.The classic books on the subject, such as those by Hoke, and Ammen will show how to use vacuum filtering with fine filter papers. The finer the paper the more gold you collect, but how fine is fine enough?When I first started to do gold refining I decided that I didn\'t want to have to mess with filtering my gold solutions in the refining process. The method I have devised eliminates virtually all filtering and produces gold of the highest purity. This process uses settling and siphoning instead of filtering. Tall glass columns are ideal for this process.Ammen, in his book, \"Recovery and Refining of Precious Metals\", stresses the importance of having your solution perfectly clear before dropping out the gold. Any visible cloudiness is a sign of a contaminat that may come down with the gold. Keep in mind that \"clear\" does not mean colorless. The solution should be a brilliant gold color devoid of all cloudiness. Actually most of the time your solution will be a nice green or blue color because of dissolved metals such as copper and nickel.Pour the solution into a tall glass column. I use graduated cylinders or even five foot long glass pipes several inches in diameter. Let the solution stand undisturbed for a day or more. Then looking at the column with good light, take note of the line where the cloudiness has settled to. Siphon off (NOT with your mouth ! ) the solution ABOVE this line. The best tube to use is a teflon tube with a tiny diameter. A polyethylene tube may work well also. Fill this tube with distilled water. Hold your finger over one end. Insert the other end down into the column. The small diameter of the tubing will prevent the water from coming out until you release your finger from the other end of the tube. Once I release my finger from my end of the tube the clear distilled water goes into a collection container. Have a second collection container ready to catch the colored solution. You can watch the colored solution work its way up the tubing. Just before the colored solution gets to the first collection container move the tube over to the second collection container to capture the gold bearing solution.Now, what about the solution that you did NOT siphon off? This still has gold in it and other junk. Simple, this is now the beginning of your NEXT solution of gold. You just keep recycling it forever and never have to filter a thing. Sweet.Now what you have is almost absolutely pure gold solution. This solution is now ready to precipitate out the gold in it. Sodium metabisulfite will do an excellent job. You can purify the precipitated gold powder even further. At this point further purification is almost unnecessary. I recommend that you still do this until you become a very good gold refiner and can get the gold super pure without rinsing. Really, there\'s almost no reason not to do this, since it is so easy, and guarantees the quality of your finished gold nuggets.This info can be found on \"The Gold Refining Forum\", and is where I learned of it. You should look it up on the Forum. It consists of several rinses, using HCL, distilled water, and perhaps even some nitric acid and/or ammonia.Please look at the pictures for my listing on , \"Secrets of Refining Gold from Electronic Scrap\". The pictures show me melting some gold with flux. Notice the color of the \"mud\". It is a dark brown. That is why I needed to use flux. Now by using the methods shown above, including the rinsing techniques learned from the Forum, the gold \"mud\" is a very light brown after refining. It is so pure, that fluxing is almost unnecessary, and many times I melt it without flux. I may use flux to hold the \"mud\" together. Then I would use straight anhydrous borax. You can tell how pure the gold was by the color of the flux after melting the gold.Some final thoughts. Don’t mix ceramic CPU’s and green or brown fiber CPU’s. Also, do your fingers by themselves, they are so easy to do. You don’t want to lose the gold from them if you mess up a batch. Also, be sure to do enough gold bearing material per batch. If there is too little gold it could get lost somewhere in the process without you knowing it. You want to use enough material to yield at least a few grams of gold.If you follow the instructions on the CD, and make use of the extra info provideGO for the GOLD. Steve Spevak.WARNING: Acid can cause blindness. Wear splash goggles. Have a bucket of warm water nearby where you could quickly dunk your whole head if necessary. ONLY work OUTDOORS. Stay upwind of the fumes. Protect children, pets and anyone else from accidently being harmed by the fumes or chemicals. Labeling pots with the date and contents is a good practice to consider using. It will help you and maybe others as well.
UPDATED info to go with \"Secrets of Refining Gold from Electronic Scrap\". FREE:
$3.00