VIKING SWORD with scabbard - EN45 Steel, Hand Forged, Norwegian, Danish NORDIC

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VIKING SWORD with scabbard - EN45 Steel, Hand Forged, Norwegian, Danish NORDIC:
$122.95

Viking Sword

RESPECTED & WELL ESTABLISHED NEW SOUTH WALES SWORD DEALERS

The history of the sword has given us many designs that are unique, and readily associated with a particular time, place, and culture. Even people who are unfamiliar with the subject will recognize a Scottish basket-hilt, a musketeer\'s rapier, or the Japanese samurai\'s katana. One of the most distinctive sword types extant has come to us from the period commonly called the Viking Age. This is a period recognized by scholars as being roughly from 750 A.D. to 1100 A.D. This was an evolutional period between the migration era and what we have come to know as the Middle Ages. The Viking Age saw the transition from composite hilts constructed of non-ferrous metals, and organic materials, to far stronger hilts fashioned from iron. At the beginning of the Viking Age these swords were exclusive to Chieftains and the great warriors in their service. The hilts were elaborately mounted with precious stones set in gold, and other lavish embellishments, that perhaps contained religious significance. By the end of the age these beautifully constructed, but ungainly, swords had been replaced by swords with better blades and stronger hilts. The point-heavy blades of the great migration gave way to sleeker tapered blades that featured improved handling characteristics. The gaudy and fragile hilts were replaced with ones made of stronger iron. Inlays of bronze, copper, and silver had replaced the golden carvings and embellishments. These forms of decoration were both striking and far more durable than those they replaced. By the close of the Viking Age sword designs that we associate with the medieval knight were in use. The sword had evolved from the status symbol of the elite into a true warrior\'s weapon.

It was once popular to call this period the \"Dark Ages\". It was widely assumed that this time between the fall of the Roman Empire and the rise of the Middle Ages was one of uncultured barbarism. While this was indeed a period of widespread war and violence it was also a time of rich cultural development. In recent decades archeological discoveries have yielded works in metal, textiles, and architecture that clearly show the supposed dark times to be just as diverse as anything before, or after it. Just as the age that spawned it is complex, so is the Viking sword.

Measurements and Specifications:

Weight:

2 pounds, 8 ounces

Overall length:

36 1/2 inches

Blade length:

30 1/4 inches

Blade width:

1 7/8 inches at base

Grip length:

4 1/4 inches

Point of Balance:

5 1/2 inches from guard

Center of Percussion:

19 1/2 inches from guard

Our Ref: PO205

This Viking Sword is based on several swords that date from the tenth century, late in the Viking Age. The most famous of these is a sword that is housed in the British Museum in London. This sword is possibly the most recognizable survivor from the Viking Age. Photographs of it have been featured in nearly every book dealing with Viking arms. (Shown on pages 77-79 in Swords of the Viking Age, as well as pg. 26, X.8, of Oakeshott’s Records of the Medieval Sword.) This excellent sword was found in the River Witham opposite Monks Abbey, Lincoln, England in October 1848. This sword was our main inspiration. It shares the Witham sword\'s sleek lines and bold proportions. Our hilt design is a variation of Petersen\'s Type S, as well as Wheeler\'s Type 6.

The blade design is categorized as a Type 4 in the Geibig typology. This type is found from the mid-tenth century through the mid-eleventh century. The blade features a moderate taper with a fuller that runs almost the length of the blade, and follows the same degree of taper as the blade\'s profile. Type 4 blades tend to be shorter, and narrower, than their earlier counterparts. In this sense, this sword is a variation instead of a pure example, since it is larger than the standard Type 4. This should not be seen as a point of contention since the swords on which it is based are larger than the norm, for the type. This is a visually striking sword, and a key feature of this is the sword\'s pommel. The grip has been fashioned from two halves of stabilized birch that has been hollowed out to accept the blade\'s tang. A central cord riser is then added to the grip for visual detail, and as an aid in gripping. Finally, the grip is covered with thin leather that is glued into place. The completed assembly results in a finished grip that is well proportioned and aesthetically pleasing. Its lower guard is a simple solid brass curved design. There is no perceptible movement in any of the hilt components. Everything is tight and secure.

The blade is cleanly finished, and very nicely finished. The fuller\'s profile is sharp and crisp, with no wandering or drifting of its outer edges. The blade features an edge geometry that is acute yet substantial enough to give good service. This edge would have been more than sufficient against the mail byrnies and wooden shields in use during the tenth century. Its blade would have done well against the lightly armored warriors of the Viking Age.

Viking swords have been described as \"big butcher knives!\" I feel that this is a very apt description. Our Viking Sword features a blade that is broad yet thin in cross-section. This design allows for a blade that is an efficient cutter yet still retains the necessary mass for strength, as well as impetus during the cut. The blade is topped off with a serviceable point that would have been effective against the typical body defenses of the period. In spite of this, however, the blade is still a dedicated cutter. The cut was the preferred offensive technique of the period and the design shows this. I used the traditional Japanese cutting medium of rolled, and water-soaked, tatami mats for my cutting exercises, and find that this sword tracks well into and out of the cut. The sword is also responsive in thrusting maneuvers. It’s an agile and efficient cutter that strikes with authority. The sword\'s grip may be considered by some to be too long. We have been educated to believe that Viking sword grips were very short. However, when examining the grip lengths of the swords listed in Swords of the Viking Age it will be seen that its grip is well within the historic parameters of the type.

For this sword I also utilize both the typical \"hammer\" style grip, as well as the \"Viking\" method of palming the sword\'s pommel. I found that both methods gave satisfactory, though very different, results. When using the hammer grip very powerful chopping blows were possible. This is a technique that would have been effective in the close press of a shield wall, where broad movements aren\'t possible. When palming the pommel longer range slashing cuts were the norms. I used thesword in conjunction with a Viking pattern shield during these exercises, and I found that the palming method allowed for a longer reach while still maintaining cover behind one\'s shield.

R Full Tang

Tang is a word of Old Norse origin, meaning a sharp point, tongue, or prong. The tang is an extension of the blade that you don\'t see because it is underneath the handle. Most swords, if they are of any quality, should already have a full tang and it doesn\'t need to be advertised. It\'s something to expect. Nevertheless, we do feel a need to differentiate this item, as 95% of swords on the netare either rat-tails orquarter tangs. Such movie/fantasy pseudo-swords are strictly for decoration only, as the much needed support in the handle is missing. They might look pretty on a wall, but they will slowly (or very quickly) come apart if used in simulated combat.

A quarter or half tang means that the blade is partially imbedded into the hilt and does not form aconnection withthe pommel. It is more difficult and expensive to create a full tang, as the handle and guard have to be manufactured around each individual sword. The most common modern tang fitting,is the rat-tail. It\'s aptly named, asthis tanghas something like the length and thickness of a rat’s tail.Rat-tails are long inner threads which run the length of the handle.They screw into a pommel cap and are spot welded to the end ofthe blade. If a pommel can be unscrewed, this does not always mean it’s on a rat-tail – but it usually is. Almost all swords made in the People’s Republic of China (the ones most frequently seen on the internet) have a cheap rat-tail. Such tangs create a weak-point in the sword, focusing all of the force onto a tiny little weld.

RHand Forged

This is not a mass-produced blade stamped out of sheet metal, it\'s 100% guaranteed hand forged. The blade is shaped and delicately curved; created with time honoured classic sword making ingredients: hammer, anvil, fire and sweat - traditionally fired, shaped and polished by skilled artisans. This sword doesn’t just look good in the photo – it will actually look and feel good in your hand. The serious collector should aim for no less than hand-forged blades. Factory-made blades are commonplace, but useless for combat. Even blades factory-produced from 5160 steelare often riddled with slag inclusions. In March 2009,a noted Australian sword expert dismantled and tested one of our standard swords. Hewrote: “I was very impressed with its flex- it almost bends to 90 degrees and snaps back without deforming.”

R With Scabbard

Supplied with a unique, custom made, hand crafted leather wrapped scabbard.

R High Carbon Steel

We use a traditional bellows-driven charcoal forge to heat the steel,hammering it into shape and then tempering it to perfection. The end result of these efforts is \"Living Steel\" - a high carbon steel blade(EN45 steel) that is exceptionally flexible, very strong, and has the potential to hold an exceptionally sharp edge.

R Correct Finish

The blade’s steel is not inappropriately shiny with a mirror finish, but has the authentic bright-gray subdued sheen favoured by enthusiasts.

R Clear Pricing Policy

We do not mix ridiculously low prices with extortionate “postage”. The price you see is the price you pay – delivered to your door (Australia). Our international air mail fee is less than US$25.00 (below cost) with further 50% reductions for multiple purchases.

R No Fuss Returns Policy

If you are less than delighted with your purchase, return it to us within seven days, and we will furnish you with a full refund – no questions asked. If the sword arrives damaged, return it to us within seven days, and we will send you another. If you pay by PayPal, your sword is automatically insured against loss. Additional postal insurance is available for $5.00.

hhh

USA & CANADA: If you are ordering from the United States or Canada, you will finddealing with us to be quick and hassle-free. There will be no customs intervention or paperwork, andyour purchaseshould be delivered to your door (air mail) in less than two weeks. Our postal fees are often below cost, so youmay be pleasantly surprised at how inexpensiveour shipping charges are. Please checkout the positive responsewe have received from dozens of satisfied U.S. clients.

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SOME OF OUR SWORD response

For the sake of convenience and to save some of your valuable time, somerelevant response is featured below. As all our swords are from the same source and carry the same high specifications, the quoted response is completely apt and relatable.Ninety-five percentof our score isdueto sales activity. Our clients includeerudite sword enthusiasts who have been delighted withour weapons. At the end of the day, we can say whatever we like about our products,but response isuneditable and completely in the hands of our valued customers.

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Like all good swords, this one is not made of modern stainless steel, and will eventually show signs of rust if not maintained. Maintenance is easy: simply keep the blade lightly oiled. Twenty years of sword exposure has taught me that any kind of light to medium weight oil will do. The oils used in gun care, such as RemOil and Ballistol, will work very well. So will ordinary sewing machine oil or even mineral oil. The \"less is often more\" adage applies as well. The sword does not need to drip with your oil of choice. This can, in fact, only serve to attract dust that in itself carries moisture. Unless one lives in a very humid Environment a light coat of oil, with a quick wipe down after handling, should be sufficient. I personally use a very old rag that has been soaked with various types of oil over the years for the purposes of wiping down. Unless debris needs to be removed from the blade after a cutting session this method has worked well for me. Many people advocate the use of compounds such as Renaissance Wax. These products do have merit and do well on swords that don\'t see frequent handling. For a sword that will be played with, I mean trained with, frequently I find that a quick wipe down with an oily rag is much more convenient. The scabbard should be considered a transportation and wearing device rather than an article designed for permanent storage. A scabbard can create a pocket of humid air around the blade, or act as a moisture trap, which is unhealthy in the long term. If oxidation occurs, usually in the form of small black spots, use Meguire’s Hot Rims Mag & Aluminium Polish for first class results – available in Australia, the UK, Netherlands and the USA.

The sword\'s grip can be cared for in a number of ways. Most leather grips have been covered with leather that has been shrunk to fit with beeswax or something similar. The resulting covering is tight and free of give. Products such as Neat\'s-foot oil may be used. If chosen they should, however, be used sparingly so as not to loosen the fit of the leather. Products such as Saddle Soap or Kiwi Leather Lotion are much preferred to oil based preservatives. These will not loosen the leather over time and will provide protection from the elements. When it gets down to it a leather grip covering requires little maintenance. If it starts to look shabby and worn then it should receive attention, otherwise it is best left alone. A wire grip really requires nothing more than an occasional buffing with steel wool to keep it looking good. Grips of Bone or Ivory should be left alone. If cleaning is required an application of lemon juice should be sufficient to whiten the surface. Wooden grips, if made from stabilized woods require little maintenance.

The Medieval Shoppe

Proudly run by Abingdon Tr. Pty. Limited

20 BartonStreet, Parkes,New South Wales, Australia

[phone removed by ]

Our Ref: Po205

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