MONARCH PRE WW-2 M-422A MODEL USN LEATHER FLIGHT JACKET BUILD

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MONARCH PRE WW-2 M-422A MODEL USN LEATHER FLIGHT JACKET BUILD:
$1950.00

For a proposed build you are now admiring some of my custom made pre WW-2 type intermediate weight USN flight jackets. In this case I'm offering a reproduction jacket build from Monarch's 85958 M-422A contract. An accurate representation of Monarch's second intermediate weight leather flight jacket contract. Among the earliest contracts from the M-422A series issued through the USN. This particular contract was let in October of 1940 and of those jackets built would have been issued throughout 1941.

The 85958 M-422A jacket's overall design is a continuation of their just earlier model M-422 with few exceptions. Recreated by me using a handful original mil spec WW-2 era Monarch flight jackets from within my persona collection. To include an original Monarch 85958 M-422A jacket as seen in the last three descriptive photos.

That original size 48 Monarch 85958 M-422 of mine is one of approximately 1,200 from that entire contract made. Not to mention only 1% of those 1,200 were made in size 48. Arguably among the most limited USN Intermediate leather flight jacket contracts made to date. Second only to the just earlier Switlik M-422. Since I began actively collecting these Monarchs in 2008 I've only seen three to date and I own one of them.

This Monarch M-422A model jacket utilized the just earlier M-422 pattern with a few exceptions. Those changes were dictated by the USN's October 1940 M-422A specifications. As per USN specifications was the addition of (seven) individual horizontal reinforcing stitches to the collar. Included was up to a 1" inch net decrease in its overall collar height to create a 2 1/2" to 2 3/4" (current specs) wide collar. The final alteration concerned the leather hanger which was made slightly more narrow.

Otherwise this is the just earlier M-422 model jacket complete. However the M-422A collar modifications were significant enough to change the overall look of this jacket. In the end lending this series jacket a more contemporary look versus the just earlier M-422.

As explained this proposed M-422A build duplicates their earliest model flight jacket. To derive my Monarch M-422A design I utilized 4 original Monarch M-422 type jackets (size 36, 40, 46 & 48) from my personal collection as pattern jackets.

Notwithstanding, all the USN Monarch jackets within my collection (with the exception of my size 48) were taken down to their individual panel pieces. While apart I patterned them complete. Thereafter painstakingly restored. Now robust enough to be worn on the occasion.

Subsequently, I've made these same Monarch jackets my concentration for reproducing. A premier WW-2 military jacket maker I greatly admire for it's style, comfort and look. Above all other makers this particular jacket is my most favorite vintage jacket maker for both civilian & mil spec jackets. Not to mention since having duplicated Monarch's M-422, AN and G-1 model jackets I refer to them as my trifecta. Let me tell you all about what you can expect with one of my custom builds!

The Monarch USN type jacket design is arguably the most form fitting of all the early WW-2 model USN leather flight jackets. Because of the lack of gut room this make jacket is best suited for those with an athletic build yet extremely comfortable if correctly sized to the individual.

All jackets are priced using a seal or chocolate brown colored goat hide. In sizes 36 through 48 to suit. Let me tell you about the build.

To begin I use superior chrome or vegetable tanned goat hides for your build. The hides that I have readily available are 1.00 to 1.2 mm thick. Much like these jackets were originally made. All the hides I utilize for my reproduction work are of a superior quality. Thus only get better looking with time and ultimately developing patina.

If interested I also do a civilian version of the AN-J-3 (leather collar) using both the same AN-J-3A or M-422 designs in either horse or goat hide. Please see my AN-J-3A type here ITEM # 113834001395 or the M-422 type here ITEM # 115095896612. Then the W&G type of AN-J-3 as seen here Item # 403731020374

The M-422 type jackets seen in the descriptive images were done using super grainy hide seal brown goat hides. More smooth seal brown goat hides are also available. Another option and more expensive goat hide can be made using an over dyed russet hide. The over dyed russet is a most interesting technique. More often that not used by Monarch on some of their early M-422, M-422A and early AN model jackets. Given wear, the over dyed base color will eventually loose portions of it's top coat. As seen with one of my original AN-J-3A jackets within the descriptive images.Thereafter revealing tan or russet undertones to the high wear areas.

The rayon lining material to be used for your build was sourced out of the UK. The only known color being a salmon or burgundy color. All in spite of brown being the specified lining color by the USN for this particular contract. This same proposed material to be used is the absolute thickest and correctly colored rayon I have ever found.

Your M-422A model jacket will come with seal brown wool knits. The Monarch M-422A and M-422 waist knits originally came with a unique horizontal (5/8" to 3/4" ribbing) and vertical (rib/rack) ratio, weave and yarn weight. Please note that I have duplicated the knit sets originally used by Monarch for their M-422 type jackets for this particular build. Examples are seen within the descriptive images along with a typical hide I use for this same build.

Your proposed M-422A model jacket is priced to come with correct buttons. The zip, is a Japanese made reproduction (correct M-39 model) blackened Talon chain and correct original blackened Talon slider and female connection point.

Notably, to aid me in my reproduction work I have a complete copy on hand for the USN's 1940 M-422 and M-422A specification sheet. Compliments of the National Archives in Washington D.C.

As a pre War jacket this M-422A build will be stitched using silk thread. Notwithstanding, this Monarch 85958 M-422A was the dead last USN flight jacket contract required to have been stitched using silk thread. Something that I discovered used on pre war jackets years ago through my restoration work and well before the contract info was discovered I was the first to implement with my reproduction jackets. Then later proved out after obtaining copies from the National Archives in Washington DC of the original USN M-422 and M-422A flight jacket specifications.

Recently, I retired my vintage Reece 101 keyhole buttonhole machine and opted for a late model machine. Now used to recreate my USN type jackets pocket flaps and throat latch. I've included a few examples of that machine's highly detailed keyhole buttonhole work and a video of my new machine stitching a USN type Monarch pocket flap.

Much like all of the USN jackets that I reproduce I utilize the correct USN stencil. To facilitate I had this particular USN stencil font CAD duplicated. Likewise the USN font for this maker and not unlike all the USN flight jacket makers is unique to this particular make and model.

There is a waiting period for this build. If you are interested and want your jacket before the coming season I suggest you start this process now rather than waiting until the last minute as these builds take time.

If interested please contact me David Sheeley at your earliest convenience to discuss your build.

Please look at my other jacket options available.